Have you been gardening for a while and find yourself asking more in-depth questions about the plants you’re growing? Do you want to know exactly what the bumps on your maple leaves are and what you can do about them? Or perhaps, your friend's Japanese Maple has leaves that are curling and you want to understand why and learn what help you can offer. Do questions about whether the plants self seed or can be propagated by a cutting come quickly to mind? And do you also think about which is better for them, sun or shade; and what type of soil is best suited for them? Do you appreciate the fact that the botanical names can clear up the confusion there might be with other plants with the same common name? Have you become more interested in the insect that may be attacking your roses or your lawn and want to learn more about them?
And most important of all, do you want to share your gardening knowledge with others? If you're interested in knowing more and your answer is yes to this very specific question, then you should consider becoming a member of Master Gardeners of Ontario Inc.
Typical questions members receive are ones about plants or trees not thriving either through disease or insect damage.
In August, a homeowner inquired by email whether this would be a good time to transplant his cedars, grapevine, and privet, and he was given information on how to go about doing it if there were no alternative. It is not generally recommended to transplant trees or shrubs at this time of the year unless they are container grown or burlap wrapped; the preferred time for transplanting would be during their dormant period.
If the plants had to be transplanted at this time of the year and a tree spade was not available a number of things that must be done to help the plants survive the trauma were emphasized: Pre dig the new holes 1 1/2 times the size of the root ball. Thoroughly water the plants for a number of days before digging. Dig the root ball as big as possible to avoid root damage. Lift the plants by the root ball to transport, not by the trunk or branches. Water thoroughly for two weeks or more after transplanting and provide shade from the sun.
Another question received in midsummer concerned a prized Patmore Ash. Small brown spots were occurring over the surface of the leaves and large areas of the leaf, especially along the edges, were turning brown with some leaf drop. The description sounded like the fungus, Gloeosporium aridum, and the person was advised to gather and destroy the fallen leaves which usually is sufficient to keep this disease at a bay. If it were to become more severe, it was advised to consider a copper spray when buds break in the spring and this spray repeated twice at 2-week intervals. Spraying in midsummer is ineffective. The person was also told to make sure that the tree was not being stressed due to factors such as drought or compaction.
Answers are not always
given immediately and often members, especially Master Gardeners in Training,
spend considerable time researching the problems posed. Various
gardening reference books are used, including "The Gardener's
Handbook", Publication 64, from the Ministry of Agriculture, Food and Rural
Affairs.